Quality - an added value
Imaginative ways to spend hours in the kitchen dominate weekday TV schedules
in many western countries, with one celebrity chef after another mixing and
chopping their way to inspired recipes. It may be insulting to
suggest that the gastronomic whims of the affluent could offer a
chink of hope for some of those who subsist on or below the poverty line, but
the current taste among Europeans and Americans for new and exotic dishes is
potentially good news for the world's spice growers, many of them small-scale
farmers.
While at one time some spices were worth more than their weight in gold, it will be of no surprise that the growers have rarely been the ones to benefit. Few spice growers get involved in processing or marketing, the more financially rewarding parts of the business, not least because the quantities they produce are usually too small to make it worthwhile. In recent times there has been a growing tendency for farmers to form groups in order to cut out the middlemen and earn greater profits, but for the majority, selling to agents or spice processors is likely to remain the norm for the time being. However, this need not preclude the possibility of growers earning more from their crops. If processors want to tap into lucrative niche markets, the quality of the raw material that they obtain is paramount; this puts the onus on them to ensure that farmers are ready to go the extra mile in achieving high production standards, but also offers rewards.
Unlike many other dried foods, spices are unusually susceptible to contaminants, both organic and chemical. Of greatest risk are pesticide and herbicide residues; presence of either non-permitted chemicals, or high levels of permitted ones can make the processed spice unsaleable. Creating contracts whereby growers receive phased payments for production to an agreed quality standard, can be an incentive for farmers to buy approved chemicals, and give them the cash to do so. Some processors go a step further, buying the inputs themselves, and distributing them in appropriate quantities. A processor can gain further control of what they buy, by supplying selected seed. This can help farmers to get higher yields, while also ensuring the processor obtains a more uniform product.
Microbiological contaminants are a lesser, but still significant danger. Killing harmful micro-organisms can be difficult, as the flavoury but volatile essences of spices are easily lost or damaged by exposure to high temperatures. So, heat treatments have to be avoided. Thus while processors may be confident in the hygiene standards of their premises and equipment, obtaining clean material from farmers depends on good communication and co-operation between buyer and seller. If a processor finds high levels of organic contaminants in their end product, they will look at the methods of cultivation, harvesting and storage that farmers are using. Such was the case for a herb and spice exporter in Guatemala, who was puzzled that certain herbs repeatedly failed the buyer's quality standards, despite thorough washing. Research revealed that when the herbs were harvested, the cut stems were placed on the ground, where they continued to absorb moisture and micro-organisms that contaminated the final product. In general farmers can cut the risks of contamination substantially if they refrain from applying raw manure to their spice crops, and place harvested spices straight into clean containers.
On-farm drying and storage of spices can also inadvertently lead to contamination. Spices laid on mats to dry are exposed to dirt and dust from any number of sources: children, pets, vehicles and livestock. When farmers are able to make and use simple solar dryers, the improvement in quality is marked. Dryers can also protect the spices from rain, which is important since repeated wetting encourages the growth of moulds, and adds to the time between harvesting and processing. 'Sunning' the spice crop, as is often done with grain, helps to reduce insect infestation. Equally important are good storage methods. Strong plastic bags or sealed metal containers will protect a crop from beetles, moths and other insects far more effectively than traditional jute sacks.
Meeting quality assurance standards does not necessarily require very high-tech strategies, yet is critical if small-scale farmers are to take advantage of the opportunity that their much prized but area-specific crops offer them. The history of the early spice traders is one of adventurous or, more commonly, desperate men who risked life and limb for the fortune that could be made from a single successful voyage to the distant, mythical Spice Islands. Such spirit of adventure may well have been reduced to what we keep in our kitchen cupboards, but could offer at least a little seasonal cheer for the world's spice farmers.
